Karma chameleon

According to Buddhist philosophy, karma is based on the strict law of cause and effect. Well, the cause was a Mint Julep Royale and the effect was liquid nirvana.

Choosing from a list of fewer than 20 house cocktails, I was initially apprehensive when an Anna Kournikova double behind the bar had to refer to two colleagues before executing this minty Makers Mark-based tipple. She nevertheless served an ace. A Bacardi-laced Golden Mojito was another smash.

Karma is owned by Fulham's Sugar Hut and the same Thai opium den decor has been successfully replicated at former 1960s rock star hangout Cafe Des Artistes. A moodily lit, L-shaped space, littered with teak-stained divans, silk cushions, carved Buddhas, pretty fairy lights and skip-loads of Bangkok bric-a-brac has the feel of a Rive Droite Paris nightclub.

This being Chelsea, punters are a mix of high-end locals and Euro lounge lizards - think Sophie Anderton and Mark Bosnich. Baltic beauties and minted footballers will appreciate the privacy afforded by intimate cushioned alcoves, set behind iron gates.

While such VIPs unblinkingly stump up £400 for a bottle of premium-branded spirit, such as Johnnie Walker Blue Label, earthbound souls may be left wondering what it was they did in past lives to be scraping together loose change for an (admittedly superior) £8.50 cocktail, or the tenner admission charge.

266a Fulham Road SW6 (Saturday members only). Tel: 020 7352 6200. Tube: West Brompton