Jamie Oliver’s latest Italian grub is pukka

Two things prejudiced me against Jamie Oliver’s new restaurant: (1) you can’t reserve tables, and (2) the idea of swelling the chubby-faced chef’s equally chubby bank account.

Don’t let it put you off. This place is ace. The lovely, down-to-earth meet and greet lady told us a table would be free in an hour — and it was. An acceptable length of time to chill in the bar, particularly when staff regularly brought round antipasto platters groaning with free Mortadella ham, focaccia bread and olives. The décor speaks of equal attention to detail. Stylish green and white floor tiles, a marble charcuterie bar and a cool whoosh of graffiti on the way up to the authentic Crapper loos.

The food is brilliantly priced, as is the wine list: it’s £37 for the most expensive bottle. My £6.50 plank of seasonal antipasti was not only cracking value, but came cutely balanced on two tins of tomatoes. A £6.95 prawn linguini starter was garlicky chilli yum and my XL portion main, the Jamie’s School Dinners special of spag bol (£9.75), made me feel like a happy kid again.

A Sicilian pork skewer (£11.95) stuffed with Italian cured meats, breadcrumbs and parmesan was like a meaty cheese puff — though surprisingly light. Just as well, as we couldn’t resist a £2.95 side rightly described as "posh truffle chips, insanely good with truffle oil and parmesan, proper posh!" Mixed Italian ice cream (£3.95) was okay and if an "ultimate chocolate, banana and nut brownie" (£4.95) was selling itself slightly too high, it could be forgiven, because this is head and shoulders above the local Canary Wharf competition. Pukka stuff.

Jamie's Italian
2 Churchill Place, E14