Italian Brera cuts the mostarda

When the latest generation of the Fraquelli family decided to drag Vecchia Milano, the palm-fringed 1970s fossil on Welbeck Street, into a new decade, they did a thorough job of it.

Shame they only managed to make it to the end of the last century: with all the etched glass, dark wood, slate, leather and stiff floral arrangements, it's as 1990s as you like. Bung Fun Lovin' Criminals on in the background and you've got quite a time-travelling experience.

The food is still in the same northern Italian territory - Brera is an upscale Milanese neighbourhood - but here the story is a whole lot more contemporary. The sophisticated menu groans with intriguing choices and ingredients, and, by and large, Lombardy-born chef Cristian Roncari cuts the mostarda.

There's wit here, like a playful twist on the classic vitello tonnato: instead of veal with a tuna sauce, we get fat slabs of raw, ruby tuna in a sticky, reduced veal jus. Risotto, perfectly sloppy/al dente and sharp with prosecco, comes crowned with decorative gold leaf. Airy, bright green spinach malfatti - a kind of gnocchi - bob in a sinfully rich pool of melted Taleggio.

I often lose interest in Italian restaurants when it comes to mains but a flawless seabass with thick lemon cream and unseasonal asparagus; and velvety venison with sage-rich pumpkin puree and blueberries kept up the momentum.

The look may be last century but this is a menu that's on the pulse.

A meal for two with wine, water and service costs about £100. 74 Welbeck Street W1. Tel: 020 7935 2371. www.brerarestaurant.co.uk Tube: Bond Street

Brera Restaurant
74 Welbeck St, W1G 0BA