Intricate Italian needs a Nana

It's not easy to have a relaxing dining experience when you feel out-dressed by your own food. But that is exactly how we felt at upmarket Italian Brera. Despite being described as a "family-run restaurant", Brera is about as far away from that as you can get. Nana's secret recipe for lasagne has long left the kitchen and her clutch of "bambini" barred.

Brera is a vast, smart, elegant restaurant. The dÈcor may be neutral but the atmosphere is pure formal dining. The cuisine - I can't call it merely food - was Milanese, which, as we discovered, is a world away from Jamie Oliver's "simple" approach to Italian. It's all unbelievably rich - something you'll need to be if you plan to eat here. That said, my absurdly pretty tuna carpaccio (£13) was exquisite - even if my tummy, attuned to the fresh, clean flavours of sushi bars, got the quease at the heavy veal jus.

However, some of the dishes had an over-the-top feel. My companion, an ex-Italian resident, thought the likes of gold leaf and prosecco risotto (£11.50) would be scoffed at in Rome. Sounded rather fun to me. Still my main - an impossible-toeattidily leaning tower of monkfish encrusted with nuts on a cauliflower patty (£17) - was a work of art. (Brera is named after a district of Milan renowned for its art collection). Although it looked good, it tasted surprisingly bland.

My companion's £24 grilled Dover sole looked like it could have taken a small whale in a fight and was all the more delicious for being, unlike most else on the menu, nakedly underdressed. The friendly, if ill-informed, staff - we needed help with an intriguing wine list and there was no sommelier - outnumbered the diners. The poor showing only added to the feeling this was one more for expense-account lunches than intimate dinners. But where Brera hit its stride was with its puddings. Berry-cheeked and be-frosted with icing, a modest-sounding pear and almond tart (£6.50) was not only beautiful but utterly delicious. A selection of fragrant grappas ensured we left Brera aglow.

Brera Restaurant
74 Welbeck St, W1G 0BA