In the Nic of time

Once upon a not-so-long time ago, Islington gave birth to a new generation of up-and-coming trendies who were to make their mark on London society. It was the time - I feel as though I am now talking about a hundred years ago - when opportunity seemed to be a signpost on every street corner. The New Romantic age was upon us, the boys from Spandau Ballet dominated the charts, and high street fashions and Islington became fashionable almost overnight.

But the gentrification of this London borough left a scar running through the heart of it. With relatively few exceptions, Upper Street became a tawdry stretch of moribund venues where one could feel the vacuum of corporate malfeasance sucking energy and life out of the place. It seemed it would be forever thus.

I happened upon Nic's Bar And Kitchen - the former Juice Bar, close to the Screen On The Green - after a tip-off from my mate St John, my local informant (otherwise known as my 'disaster correspondent'). On his first visit, St John overheard the manager saying to one of the staff, 'It's up to us to make great cocktails and provide the best service.' These were heartwarming words to a man who feels he has been neglected as an Upper Street denizen for most of his recent life.

The front part of the bar looks and feels like a take-away delicatessen - and that's exactly what it is, filled with all manner of delights you want to eat - huge doorstep sandwiches, fabulous burgers, salads, and a wide range of Pacific Rim plates. You can eat or drink at one of the few tables here, but the back is where you'll find the bar and the main action.

It's been done up on the cheap, in a style that any high street designer would advise against - and therein lies its charm. It's as comfortable and relaxed a venue as you could hope to find, and the well-spaced tables allow privacy and intimacy. And, unlike other venues on this stretch, you don't need a state-of-the-art ear-defence system to conduct a normal conversation.

We started with a Mojito and an Old Fashioned - both perfectly made and presented, and a bit of a steal at £5. Though why Manuel, our hyperfriendly Spanish bartender, offered us soda in each of them beat me. These drinks should always be consumed at their designed maximum strength. From the very limited wine list we chose a bottle of Vega Crianza Rioja (£16.85), and would have had a second, time permitting.

All the food from the deli is available in the bar, and we ordered a tapas plate of chorizo, tomato, garlic bread, tortilla, manchego cheese and olives (£8.50). It was fabulous, and authentically Spanish, but not quite as good as the smoky black bean chilli nachos with salsa, cheese and avocado (£7.25). The black beans were so spicy and tender, I ordered an extra portion to take home with me.

Nic's is a must-do venue. I just hope they can maintain the pace and quality when it gets jam-packed with Islingtonians, as it surely will.

Nic's Bar and Kitchen
74 Upper Street, N1 0NY