I wanna be in this Gang

Two extremely well-upholstered guys were guarding the door on each of my first three visits to Taman Gang (Balinese for Park Lane, apparently, if you read the rubbish I have to read). They looked like they belonged in the front row of an international rugby squad - Uzbekistan springs to mind. You don't get many of these guys to the hundredweight.

But worse was to come in the form of one of those Clipboard Collettes - sweet-looking, but venomous creatures, whose job it is to humiliate all-comers whose names are not on their list along with the 'VIP' suffix. It's easier clearing US customs with a suspicious package than it is getting in to Taman Gang.

But I forgave the aggressive door militia when I realised this place is from the same stable as Chinawhite. Presumably they're trying not to emulate the Chinawhite clientele of Eurotrash and spit-roasters, so good luck to the doormen I say. Keep up the good work.

Curiously enough I've never been refused entry, but my advice is to dress smart and not turn up in large single-sex gangs. And once inside this windowless basement in the hinterland of Marble Arch - below, but not belonging to the Marriott Hotel - you'll be treated to a visually breathtaking experience of carved limestone, running water features, candlelit tables and lowslung squashy furnishings in the lounge area.

The theme is pan-Asian, and the project is being overseen by Gary Yau, younger brother of Hakkasan's Alan Yau - the similarity to his elder brother's gaff is noteworthy. Everything, from the design of the staff uniforms (Ghost and Ozwald Boateng, apparently) to the beautifully carved wood and limestone in the loos (the ladies' is most worthy of praise), reflects a close eye for detail.

The cocktails (starting at £8) are skilfully prepared and beautifully presented, with many reflecting the Eastern influences by incorporating the ingredients of lemongrass, ginseng, lychee and jasmine. A South Sea Breeze (Miller's gin with lychee and guava juice) is a thirst-quenching, easily quaffable cocktail, and the Diablo is a triumphant concoction of Jose Cuervo tequila, cassis and ginger ale. Other classic cocktails can be ordered off menu.

Wines start at £22 per bottle and quickly rise through the price ranks to serious spending amounts (£680) in the fine-wine collection. A bottle of Deavaux Cuvée D' champagne is £45, a magnum of Dom Perignon 1973 will set you back £1,600. I look forward to returning one day to sample a bottle of Cuvée Elizabeth Salmon rosé champagne (£130) when someone else is paying.

Small dishes from the restaurant menu can be taken in the lounge bar and these include grilled king crab with creamy fondant egg (£17), a mango and prawn spring roll (£4.50) and a crispy duck roll with nashi pear and pine nuts (£5).

From the relative safety of the bar area you can observe the annoyingly rich brigade pigging out on expensive tucker in the restaurant. Many diners looked as though they'd come straight from the City, and there was more than just a hint of the beautiful Eurotrash brigade. But don't let this put you off. If you have the budget to impress a date, Taman Gang is the place for you.

I will definitely be back. I just hope the truly, madly, deeply nice guys on the door remember my face.

Taman Gang
141 Park Lane, W1K 7AA