The bar is bookable, but early and late slots are usually available to walk-ins. Cured salmon micuit, chopped duck egg and watercress (£7.50) or roasted quail with Landes foie gras and spiced pear chutney (£7) are among the top choices from the extensive menu. 10-13 Grosvenor Square W1 (020 7107 0000, gordonramsay.com/maze)
Moro Exmouth Market stalwart Moro is 10 years old this year and as busy as ever. The bar, however, sometimes has an opening.
Tapas is served there all day, but the restaurant menu is usually available too (if the kitchen's not too slammed).
"We don't take reservations for the bar," says bar manager Ian Campbell, "but you can leave a number to put a hat down and we'll call when there's space."
Luckily, there are loads of good places to have a drink along the market cobbles while you wait. Pop in for some tapas and a glass of fino, or tuck into a hearty dish of wood-roasted cod with Seville orange sauce, lentils and spinach (£17.50). 34-36 Exmouth Market EC1, (020 7833 8336, moro.co.uk)
Arbutus Every time chef Antony Demetre and manager Will Smith win a gong for their Frith Street newcomer, Arbutus, it becomes harder to get a table.
So now they've just added a Michelin star to the trophy cabinet, should we be booking for a table in 2010? Not a bit of it. The bar is rarely fully booked, so it's still possible to show up on the off-chance. Thus you get a taste of Demetre's refined cooking but in an extra-relaxed atmosphere. 63-64 Frith Street W1 (020 7734 4545, arbutusrestaurant.co.uk)
Scott's Since this classic Mayfair fish restaurant was given a swish refurb in December, it has been a major draw for the A-list crowd.
But what about us lesser mortals? "There's always a chance something will be available as the bar's open all day," maintains general manager Matthew Hobbs.
"We take reservations, but keep some seats free for people who want to drop in. For a dead cert come earlier." Fruits de mer from the three-metre long crustacea display (£26.50 per person) come highly recommended. 20 Mount Street W1 (020 7495 7309, scotts-restaurant.com)
Atelier de Joël Robuchon The Byzantine reservation system at the London outpost of French culinary maestro Joël Robuchon had us all foxed for a while.
But it is now possible to make reservations at any time, and there's often a high likelihood of walk-in availability, particularly at the counter.
Le Burger (£15), a beef and foie gras burger, or steak tartare (£18) are just two of Robuchon's classics. But definitely don't leave the place without trying the famous pommes purées. 13-15 West Street WC2, (020 7010 8600, robuchon.com)
