Hey Presto!

Although facing stiff competition from Centrale and Pollo, my fave Soho Italian has to be Presto, a colourful stalwart at the fag end of Old Compton Street. Having resisted all temptation to tamper with the cheery interior - think Rimini circa 1961 - I'm concerned about a rumour that the owners are considering a revamp.

Basta already ragazzi! The orange and black interior, wrought-iron swirls, plastic 'oak' beams, opaline lights and Artex alcoves stuffed with kitsch ornaments and raffia-clad chianti bottles ain't broke, so please don't try to fix 'em. The retro menu is packed with equally familiar charms - try Scampi Mornay, saltimbocca or 100 ways with pasta.

St Martin's fashion students such as Galliano, Hamnett and Ozbek all pigged out here and occasionally still do, while one corner is a virtual shrine to their most devoted customer, former local Derek Jarman, whose supper was biked over every evening to his hospital sick bed, as his life ebbed prematurely away.

Presto
4-6 Old Compton Street, W1D 4TB