Heaven born out of Hell's Kitchen

It's been an uphill journey from Hell's Kitchen to Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green for head chef Tim Payne, better known as Marco Pierre White's No 2 off the telly. Almost as daunting as the trip I thought I'd have finding his new gastropub. Kensal Green? Where? Actually, it's just a hop away from Paddington. And, once I was there, I could see why the buzz has been so big about this clever conversion.

On Saturday nights, young Notting Hill trendies mount the stairs to the club room with its DJ and its roof-top smoking area. You'll find local 30-somethings sipping cocktails in the chintzy/chic front-room pub.

The dining area is warm, relaxed, has perfectly dimmed lighting, mismatched chairs, old paintings and a chandelier. We asked our waiter - who was so laid back he was almost horizontal - what was the fresh bread he was giving us. He replied: "No idea." We didn't mind much, given it was scrumptious and after a three-course assault of Payne's food, we didn't mind about much at all. "Bliss" is how my date described his seared scallops (£8.75); plump beauties shimmying on a shell and given a fat, salty tang with the bacon and crispy seaweed. My salad of grilled asparagus (£5.95) was too crunchy and slyly padded out with spring onions. However, the grilled black bream (£13.75), sprinkled with citrus fruits, was beautifully tender.

It even outdid my date's chargrilled rib-eye steak with wild mushrooms and chips (£14.95) - which was succulent from its bone marrow roasting juices. We weren't going to go for puds but a menu of childhood faves proved so irresistible we ordered knickerbocker glory (£5.95) and sticky toffee pudding (£5.50). Being out from under Marco's wing must agree with Payne, he's created a little paradise.

Paradise By Way Of Kensal Green
Kilburn Lane, London, W10 4AE