Having a ball at the Chop House

If you're not one for traditional English food, this menu could prove pretty daunting. But get past the self-consciously Olde English feel to Conran's new gaff (not reflected in the decor that is vintage Conran - plain and spot-lit, despite white tiles and sweating chefs on display) and it's terrific.

Service is exceptionally knowledgeable and friendly: when I asked for a wine from the cheaper end of the formidable list, my waiter went straight for the lowest-priced New World option and it was delicious. And the food is so good I'd bet I could even swallow the liver (I didn't try, I confess).

Two tender slices of wood pigeon came with toast and paté and deliciously spicy girolle mushrooms; cider and leek broth turned out to be a wonderful way to drown a mussel. Morel pudding (like steak and kidney, but with wild mushrooms instead of innards) boasted suet of perfect consistency, and the steak had evidently benefited from its 42-day ageing.

Puddings weren't as sublime - or perhaps we were just too full to properly appreciate them - and prices, in this den of suits, can be off-putting (three courses with wine and service hit the £100 barrier). But gird loins and wallet and you'll have a ball.

Warwick Court, Paternoster Square EC4. Tel: 020 7029 9400. Tube: St Paul's

Paternoster Chop House
Warwick Court, Paternoster Square, EC4N 7DX