Happy tapas in Clapham

This review was published in May 2001

This weird, doldrumy weather - OK, so it's momentarily sunny, but you just know it'll be chucking it down any second - has produced whole statistics of depressed people. So all of you in need of cheering up could do a lot worse than head for El Rincon Latino, a mad little tapas bar in a not particularly inspiring side street off Clapham High Street; here, it's party time all year round.

On the midweek evening we visited, it was humming with life, music, vino and the pursuit of a good time. Everyone in this higgledy-piggledy little gaff seems to be in a good mood; even the staff appear to be having more fun than anyone has a right to. Special mention must go to our waiter, the divine Federico; not only was he cute, but he seemed to anticipate the needs of a baying horde of people (all tables seem to be for eight or more) without missing a beat or losing his excellent humour.

The atmosphere, the service, the big parties ... the food's going to be rubbish, isn't it? Actually, no. Although the menu doesn't have any surprises, our vast swathe of tapas was almost universally excellent: moist, succulent chorizo in red wine; tender baby squid in light, lacy batter; meaty chargrilled prawns; vibrant artichokes; patatas bravas that were, unusually, strangers to the microwave; an earthenware pot of garlicky spinach topped with egg; and, in keeping with the loud Cuban music, crispy little empanadas. Great fun and great value, just don't go for a quiet romantic evening.