Groovy, guilt-free and utterly gorgeous

Stop reading and book now! Due to popularity, I can reveal that Monday is the last day non-members will be allowed to dine in this swanky new den (though you can still do lunch) unless they are the guest of a member. And it’s so worth it.

The entrance is almost off-putting: an unmarked double door down a dark Shoreditch side street. Push it open and you’ll worry you’ve broken into someone’s office. If they hadn’t confirmed my reservation (booking ahead is compulsory) I’d have thought it hadn’t opened yet. But climb two flights and you’re plunged into what feels like the grooviest loft party in Manhattan.

Shady lighting, low jazz and sophisticated hubbub from the trendy, youngish crowd. If the word exclusive gives you a frisson, this is the joint for you. The vibe, like its New York/Soho sister bar, Milk & Honey, is very Prohibition era. I almost expected the drinks to come in teacups, though the chunky glass tumblers were the next best thing.

My date had been worried at my description of guilt-free eating, with the place promising "low-calorie, low-fat, low-GI and low or no-carb choices: sorry chaps, no bangers and no mash", yet he was reassured by his Cornish crab linguine (£10), an al dente carb-fest zested with lemon and red chilli.

I dug enthusiastically into a vegetable curry (£10) served in its own edible pumpkin pot. We both gorged at the gorgeous buffet — (£5/£9 for starter/main) — a succulent spread of salads, grilled sardines and meats. That said, the wine, more than food, is the focus here (£4 to £20 a glass). Drink less, drink better is the watchword.
Want to avoid the bingeing hordes? Go east.

The East Room
2 Tabernacle Street, EC2 4LU