Greenwich's confusing Inside job

This review was published in May 2001

Greenwich's new Inside looks a little like restauranting by numbers: first convert your shop, then fill with laminated tables and chairs; paint one wall and hang large canvasses covered in either modern art or an effort by a four-year-old acquaintance; staff with decorative young women; and create a menu containing some of the Noughties' favourite ingredients. Then sit back and watch the punters roll in.

Excuse my cynical tone, but it all seems just a little too formulaic for words. However, I don't for a second think the owners are being similarly cynical, I think they just lack imagination; which is a bit of a shame because the food deserves better.

In contrast to the blandness of the space, the dishes we chose demonstrated a fondness for big, gutsy flavours. Prawns and squid - actually tiny little octopus, complete with feathery tentacles - came with earthy chickpeas and a light broth punchy with chilli and garlic. A goats' cheese and caramelised onion tart looked deadly dull but tasted divine: crumbly pastry, creamy cheese with that slightly rank but addictive goatiness and stickily sweet onions.

My duck breast was terrific: moist, pink meat, its light sauce vibrant with star anise and the delicate noodles fragrant with coriander. By comparison, a perfectly pleasant roast monkfish with lemon risotto cake rather paled into insignificance. We'd had rather a long wait for our food and a starving request for some form of fried potato - not on the menu - was met without a murmur.

Prices are city centre steepish - about £6 for starters, £12 to £15 for mains. But concentrate on the food at Inside and not the surroundings and you won't go far wrong.

Inside
Greenwich South Street, London, SE10 8NW