Grand day out at La Rascasse

This review was published in July 2002

When I told a friend that we were going to eat at the Caf? Grand Prix, he rolled his eyes in horror. Indeed, had I not heard that in addition to the rather ghastly theme pub on Berkeley Street there happened to be a good underground restaurant, I might have felt the same.

As we arrived in the vast, subterranean La Rascasse restaurant, the lengths to which Caf? Grand Prix goes to keep itself to itself became apparent - with the exception of my friend and me, it was completely empty.

Decorated in a manner that is probably intended to evoke belle ?poque Monte Carlo, it succeeds only in recalling a Saudi princeling's drawing room circa 1981. The food, however, is very good, verging on the exquisite. Michelin-Mediterranean just about sums it up. I toyed with the idea of smoked cod brandade, grilled sea scallops and vinaigrette of leeks; but in the end went for escab?che of sea bass, two tangy little sea bass fillets marinated and then seared for a minute - outstanding.

The Riviera salad ordered by my friend may have sounded kitsch but was, in fact, clever and considered.

Of a baby lobster salad ni?oise and the saut?e of red mullet and langoustine served with a piquant sauce on a bed of couscous, I went for the latter and was once again impressed, although I feel that the amount of couscous was perhaps a little overwhelming. The lamb, sliced and served pink on top of a cassoulet, was judged good but perhaps a little under seasoned.

We examined the cheese trolley - not a bad effort - and marvelled at a wine list that enumerated well over 800 different wines, including a Roman?e-Conti at over £14,000 a bottle, and left the place pleased to have found such a good restaurant and delighted to have had it to ourselves. I think I will make a habit of coming.

La Rascasse
50a Berkeley Street, W1