Gourmets try on chef's hat

Food critics are preparing for a taste of their own medicine. The five gastronomes have been slaving away in their own kitchens, creating cakes that members of the public will judge.

They are the Evening Standard's restaurant reviewer Fay Maschler, ES magazine's Toby Young and Charles Campion, Tom Parker Bowles of the Mail on Sunday and Terry Durack of the Independent on Sunday. Visitors to the critics' stand at the Taste of London food festival, which begins in Regent's Park today, will be able to tell them what they think of their offerings.

Young and Bill Knott of the Independent came up with the idea of the stand, called The Critz. Tracey Macleod of the Independent will bake rosemary and lemon cantucci biscuits for the event, which will raise money for Action Against Hunger and the Ark Foundation.

Restaurant columnist Young has made a chocolate fridge cake. He said: "Most of us have been dishing it out for years; this is an opportunity to see if we can take it. Perhaps being on the receiving end for once will give us pause for thought next time we feel like sticking the boot in." Campion, an Evening Standard restaurant reviewer, has made a cake from one of his own recipe books.

"It is a very old-fashioned recipe for what is technically called a boiled fruit cake," he said. "I pre-cook the fruit with some tea, which makes it very moist. I have added some dried tropical fruits to make it even better."

Maschler said: "I have made a fruit cake based on my mother's Christmas cake recipe so I have called it Mary Coventry fruit cake. The secret is to use lots of brandy."

The opening of the stand will be marked tonight by a cakes contest between the gourmets and five Michelin-starred chefs, including Michel Roux Jr and Giorgio Locatelli. The festival runs until Sunday.

www.tasteoflondon.co.uk