Each year wine worth hundreds of millions of pounds is turned undrinkable by corkage. In Italy this year, in the first case of its kind, Barolo producer Elio Altare is suing his cork producer after 27,000 bottles of his 1997 harvest were ruined by faulty corks. Even the cork industry does not dispute claims that between two and four per cent of all wine flaws are due to the quality of bottle-stoppers.