Gold star for service

In a designer-updated former pub, Ichizen offers Japanese food with a modern twist. On a Thursday night, though, that didn't seem enough to tempt in any locals and we were one of only two couples there.

It did mean we got individual attention from the staff, who were the highlight of our visit: enthusiastically explaining the dishes - and how to eat them - without being patronising. The menu is bright and breezy and offers lots of tempting and authentic choices, from edamame peas to temaki: roll-your-own sushi.

Sadly, maybe due to the lack of custom, somebody in the kitchen seemed to have lost heart. Starters of fishcake and chicken yakitori tasted day-old and dull, as did our main-course sticky rice (which wasn't sticky) and wilted spinach.

The rice for our temaki was ice-cold, rather than room temperature as it should be, while the seaweed was dry and brittle.

Mains of seafood yakitori (skewered tiger prawns, tuna and salmon in a sweet chilli sauce) and glazed duck (duck breast in soy, honey and sugar, with pak choy and plum sauce) were better, if lacking that extra kick. Still, I liked Ichizen, for its demystifying of Japanese cuisine and its staff.

I hope it was just a bad night.

A three-course dinner for two with wine, water and service costs about £70. 68 Heath Street NW3. Tel: 020 7794 6667. Tube: Hampstead

Ichizen
68 Heath Street, NW3