Going Columbian in Camberwell

This review was first published in April 2001

A Colombian restaurant in Camberwell is a strange concept but add to this the fact it appeared to be frequented by - how can I put this politically correctly? - ladies who prefer the company of other ladies, it becomes a very curious package indeed. In one of those staggeringly beautiful streets Camberwell throws up out of its rather bleak core, it's a surprising find in more ways than one.

It's pretty - all yellows and greens with a kind of conservatory warmed by outdoor heaters - and it exudes a bright, amateurish air: the décor looks like it was cobbled together by the manager.

Despite no booking, we were made to feel very welcome by the sole member of staff, who juggled the demands of his busy restaurant admirably. There's a laminated menu (oh dear) and specials; we stuck to the carte and ordered masses of food. Strangely, we managed to pack it all away - it's in the unsophisticated but very moreish mode; all the dishes come tapassized, making greediness almost excusable.

Highlights included plantain Inca, an extremely savoury cheese-topped gratin; Colombian sausage, a gorgeously crumbly and meaty chorizo-alike; melting pork 'cacique' in a cream and honey sauce; and a fabulously silky pumpkin purée. More ordinary were Chile chick peas (in an anodyne tomato sauce) and sauté potatoes with a claggy, granular peanut relish. We had more - but space precludes listing - and copious quantities of vino: 61 quid the lot.

Chibchas
119 Grove Lane, SE5