Going back to Picasso's time

Researching characters for a Swinging Sixties novel? Then check out the cast of flirts, rakes, chancers and superannuated playboys at this Chelsea fixture.

For them, it's always 1963 - when they might just have stood an outside chance of pulling a King's Road cracker, like Marianne Faithful, Mary Quant, Jean Shrimpton or FranÃoise Hardy.

The jazzy marble-floored Mediterranean interior, with its wooden booths, rattan upholstered chairs, trellising and fake flowers is of similar vintage, although the place dates back even further to 1949. Ensconced behind his zig zag panelled counter, il propriatorio oversees white-aproned waitresses dishing up comfort classics, such as prawn cocktail, spaghetti aglio olio and minute steak sandwich.

Prices reflect the neighbourhood, but for the paltry cost of a steaming cappuccino and toasted tea-cake, a pavement seat under candy-striped awning offers an idyllic spot to savour one of London's most enduring peoplewatching opportunities. Groovy baby!