Go on, break the rules

The month of clean living is upon us. The last crumbs of mince pie have been swept away, the empty bottles await recycling ('Did we really drink all that?') and the weighing scales give a plaintive squeal each time you approach.

Ahead lie four weeks of low-fat this and reduced that, boring hours in the gym and, of course, NO ALCOHOL. What a start to the year. We all glibly yell 'Happy New Year' at one another and then spend the first twelfth of it in self-denial purgatory. So, here goes. I'm starting a campaign to make January a happy month. And, in that spirit, I'm recommending big, juicy wines, not low-alcohol alternatives. I say, eat, drink and stay merry - and hope your doctor doesn't notice.

Wyndham Estate Bin 888 Cabernet Merlot 1999 (right, larger Safeway stores, £6.99). This South-Eastern Oz red has good cherry and plum flavours, lively tannins and a soft toffee finish. Not as brawny and muscular as most Aussies, but a succulent, drinkable wine for the price. Good dinner-party glug.

Chassagne Montrachet 1998 Domaine Jean-Marc Morey (Waitrose, £15.99). This is unusual - a classic red Burgundy from a village that specialises in classic white Burgundy. Morey is a brilliant winemaker and has pulled another ace from his sleeve with this fine Pinot Noir. It's not over-oaked, has great balance and fine redcurrant flavours. Outstanding with a plate of mixed soft cheeses.

Tesco Finest Medoc 1998 (Tesco, £6.99). I'm normally loath to suggest generic wines - especially when branded by a supermarket - but there are exceptions. This one is a deep, serious red with lots of plum and blackberry. Decant for dinner-party consumption and most wine snobs would be conned into thinking they were drinking a minor classified growth.

Cape Mentelle Semillon Sauvignon 2000 (Majestic, £9.49). A hefty price for an Aussie white, maybe, but Cape Mentelle is Cloudy Bay's Western Australian sister (both now owned by Veuve Clicquot). This is a rich, succulent white stuffed full of peach, lemon and grapefruit. Worth the extra bucks.