Get to your Cuba roots at Che

Any bar which is even faintly themed is generally on dodgy territory. Quirky decor, crass nibbles, embarrassing drinks, leitmotifs and so on. Which is why cigar bar Ch? is quite an achievement. It could have gone so terribly wrong ('Havana good time?' and so on) but, in fact, Ch? is well styled, understated, and really quite unspeakably cool.

It might not have quite decided whether or not its look is supposed to predate Guevara himself (extravagant, distinctly un-Communist plush leather trimmings and tastefully neutral interiors mix with functional, industrial steel doorways), but somehow it works. Special mention must go to the ashtrays: square, white and heavy with the well-conceived Ch? logo nestling in the

At 6.45pm on a Saturday night the punters in the main bar are not wildly fashionable or noticeably old-town Havana - a couple of American tourists get as close to Cuba as they're ever going to, and two middle-aged women down mojitos - but the cigar lounge is home to a palpably more exotic crowd.

In one corner, an extravagant Russian smokes a Romeo y Julieta with a couple of super Natashas, and in another some manner of salon society appears to be discussing culturally relevant issues round a pot of tea, a bottle of absinthe and some Montecristos. The menu suggests drinks and cigar combos, and says things like: 'The earthy sweetness of the Churchill marries well with the slightly unusual flavours of the Marc. Not one for the beginner!' There is something irresistibly civilised and grown-up about Ch?.

Che
23 St James's Street, SW1A 1PH