Get jiggy Jamaican style

It is a truism of 21st-century politically correct life that any form of gentle joshing against social groups is only ever deemed to be funny if that wit is selfdeprecating. Only the Irish can tell good idiot jokes these days, and the same applies to every other race, creed or colour. All of which is a real bummer when you're a white Anglo-Saxon heterosexual who doesn't hail from East Anglia.

Those of West Indian origin (or, perhaps, Ali G) can still get away with lines like: 'I is going to Westmin-i-ster to arks me a question bout da royal rift wif da Duchess hof York, den I is goin' to meet me Julie anda da bridge and get me some rice and peas and jerk me chicken till it's ready to jerk itself, and dan am goin' to neck me a bucket hof da Red Stripe and do me some serious chillin' mahn.'

Anda De Bridge (I really think it should be 'da' rather than 'de' ) is indeed under a bridge on the lower reaches of the Kingsland Road, and managed to dip below my normally efficient bar radar when it opened a few years ago.

It is a fashionably scruffy affair, with a chilled-out lounge bar at the front, and a cafeteria-style area with more formal seating at the back. I first visited late on a Thursday evening to find a band coming to the end of their Jamaican beat/reggae set (there is live music every Thursday evening), and judging by the whoops and cheers for the artistes, this is emerging as one of the area's most popular destination venues.

But be warned: the cocktail list includes a section called 'Overproof', using Appleton 151 dark rum which has a staggering alcohol content of 75 per cent by volume. If dark rum doesn't float your boat, try the Van Gogh, a brave concoction of absinthe and Grand Marnier shaken with passion fruit juice. At just £7.50 each, these represent something of a steal. They also have a 'normal' selection of cocktails and make a very good Mojito and Jamaican Mule for £6 each.

The wine list isn't desperately inviting, but with such a massive selection of premium quality spirits, wine is hardly the reason for visiting Anda De Bridge. Draught beers include Red Stripe (£2.50 a pint), Guinness (£2.50) and Hoegaarden (£3.50). There are some interesting bottled beers such as a Guinness brewed in Nigeria (£3) and Rum Cream beer (£4).

The menu is peppered with delightfully traditional Jamaican recipes of fried plantain (£2.50), which make for a good starter, and main meals include steamed snapper in a coconut sauce salsa (£6.50), jerk chicken (£5) and a brown stew of chicken with yam, dashine, green banana and boiled dumpling (£6).

A visit to Anda De Bridge is a must if you enjoy a laid-back atmosphere and Jamaican food and drink.

Anda De Bridge
42-44 Kingsland Road, E2 8DA