Full of surprises

The moment I saw the 'Rc' logo in place of an old, swinging Rose And Crown, I presumed it would be ropey. This assumption was borne out when I clocked its decor. Whoever turns a 300-yearold pub into a feeble imitation of Cafe Rouge has taste issues. The terracotta and yellow tones, brown hard chairs, floorboards stripped back to their least fetching shade of banana, offensive mock-bronze 'contemporary' light fittings, and the clunkiest wood and wingnut menus (which could easily kill a man) did not inspire confidence in the food. The staff were friendly, but the atmosphere was flat for a pub on Sunday lunchtime in a comely, wealthy neighbourhood.

We ordered a bottle of 2001 Chateau Creissan from the Languedoc, a gorgeous blend bursting with ripest blackberry. The list had a good and unusual selection of French and New World wines, far more interesting than the John Smith's and Guinness sitting next to dull lagers on tap. Things at the Rc were looking up.

We shared some anchoyade, which is essentially a tongue-ticklingly savoury anchovy mayo, which we smothered on chunky crudite. The surprises continued with a lamb confit spiced with Moroccan flavours mild enough to let the flavoursome meat shine. Some undercooked coco beans were the only weak point.

Half a roast chicken with crispy skin was served with the sort of light-coloured, slightly thick gravy for which mash was made, so I asked to swap roast spuds for a buttery mash. A dish that made Simon Hopkinson famous was done real justice here. But the mash was like polenta, slickly granular, greasy with butter. I asked for another portion, which was infinitely better. The menu has simple satisfying dishes on it - smart, generously portioned, meat-and-potatoes-type stuff. And for a pub, they rustled up a mean espresso, too.

The Rc looks pedestrian and I judged it by shallow metropolitan criteria. Humble pie is a self-improving food, and I was forced to eat it here.

It tasted good.

Rose & Crown
Highgate High Street, London, N6 5HX