Fulham Thai-ed up in noodles

This review was published in April 2002

New restaurants in that part of the Fulham Road archly known to its regulars as 'the Beach' tend to be designed for the would-be fashionable hair-flicking Fulhamistas - Sophie's Steakhouse, Randall & Aubin et al.

So when an unassuming little restaurant opens up right next door to Aubergine with no fanfare and retiringly calls itself Thai Noodle Bar, it comes as something of a surprise.

Its very reticence makes it attractive in this most 'look at me' of surroundings. But it's no canteen: care has been taken with the kind of Thai-lite design. Yes, there are lanterns, yes, there are dark wood screens and yes, the staff are in uniforms that subtly suggest national dress - but it all adds up to a pleasantly soothing environment.

The shortish menu gives you a summary of Thai greatest hits: spring rolls, fishcakes, noodles and rice dishes and curries. They may be clichèd but they're well executed.

Fishcakes managed the correct springiness without being bouncy, their dip was packed with zingy flavours; satay chicken was generous, perfectly grilled; spring rolls were elegant and ungreasy; dim sum were light, moist and delicate. A splendid Pad Thai was bursting with big prawns and frilly fried tofu, the noodles perfectly cooked, while a seemingly simple assembly of stir-fried vegetables with fried rice was fresh and savoury.

Tempura vegetables, however, were inelegant slabs and were missing their billed sweet and sour sauce.

Overall, though, quality was good, staff were sweet and helpful and prices as unassuming as the rest of the operation.