Two very different restaurants highlight India's love affair with game this autumn. Mayfair's Tamarind has a selection of new dishes including salad of grilled quail with pickled beetroot, kumquats and caramelised onions in a spiced avocado dressing. Lunch is £16.95 for two courses. Over at the more accessible Mela, its game festival (until Oct 23) offers partridge kalamirch, cooked on a tawa and spiced with black pepper or bater zaffrani, quails marinated in saffron, fragranced with green chilli, mace and cardamom and blasted into tenderness in the tandoor.