Five of the most popular Japanese

Sumosan, 26b Albemarle Street, W1 (020 7495 5999) £44

Launched at much the same time as Zuma, this Mayfair restaurant - like Viktor a branch of a Russian original - came second in the race for recognition, acclaim and A-list celebs, but the tortoise is catching up as customers learn to appreciate relatively easy booking, calm, excellent sushi and sashimi.

Hazuki, 43 Chandos Place, WC2 (020 7240 2530) £30

Easy access to what stays for some a mysterious and slightly intimidating cuisine is provided at this simply decorated restaurant. A page of appetisers and a long list of specials, all modestly priced, encourage a pick 'n' mix approach to ordering which can lead to happy discoveries. Hazuki will also deliver (consult www.sushihazuki.co.uk).

Tsunami, Unit 3, 5-7 Voltaire Road, SW4 (020 7978 1610) £40

Spotted: a group of Nobu staff celebrating here - not surprising given the migration of a Nobu chef to this chic, sleek Clapham Japanese. First-rate sushi, imaginative dishes such as oyster kataifi and sea urchin shiso-leaf tempura, plus no one checking to see you're wearing Prada before smiling, add up to a desirable destination. £40

Sushi-Say, 33b Walm Lane, NW2 (020 8459 2971) £20

The broad-based array of sushi in this small, narrow restaurant is well described on the menu and usefully herded into various selections. Tempura batter is notably gossamer-like and the agedashi tofu arrives alluringly, with bonito flakes dancing in the heat from the fried bean curd. Home-made ice creams and frozen sake both send shivers of pleasure down the spine.

Benihana, 77 King's Road, SW3 (020 7376 7799) £50

Surf 'n' turf teppanyaki-style with jokecracking, knife-spinning chefs makes this international chain with three outlets in London (also in Swiss Cottage and Piccadilly) a favourite with children and groups of people who appreciate a distraction from conversation. Ingredients are good quality and you see exactly what is being done to them. Chelsea has the most dramatic decor.