Five of the best steaks

The Gaucho Grill, 19 Swallow Street, W1 (020 7734 4040)

The rump, sirloin, fillet or rib-eye steaks cooked on the parrillas (charcoal grill) are rated highly by steak specialists, although the accompanying sauces may be frowned upon by strict gastronomes. Excellent red wines are another welcome Argentine import. £70

Smiths of Smithfield, Top Floor, 67-77 Charterhouse Street, EC1 (020 7251 7950)

A menu listing sources, cuts, names of breeders and the length of time the beef has been hung pumps up expectations - as do the prices - to perhaps greater heights than a piece of grilled meat can ever climb, but a City-based, maledominated clientele merrily chomps through steak every day. Chips and bearnaise are suitably flattering. £100

Notting Grill, 123a Clarendon Road, W11 (020 7229 1500)

Antony Worrall Thompson tracks down pure-breed Aberdeen Angus beef, hung for 28 days, for the steaks in which the kitchen specialises. The less carnivorous are also catered for - with home-grown vegetables and salads when available - but the ethos of the place is of a boisterous, roistering, bloody good night out. £90

Black & Blue, 215-217 Kensington Church Street, W8 (020 7727 0004)

An appealing modern steakhouse with attentive staff serving all the classics. The American comfort food on offer includes butterfly prawns to hamburgers, but the main attraction is the steak - sirloin, fillet, ribeye, T-bone and cote de boeuf - all top-notch. Save some room for the sharp lemon tart. £72

Racine, 239 Brompton Road, SW3 (020 7584 4477)

After working at Bibendum and launching The Fifth Floor restaurant at Harvey Nichols, chef Henry Harris has opened his own ideal business in partnership with Eric Garnier whose front-of-house skills are a match for the honourable, rooted, delicious French food. Steak bearnaise is a popular choice. £90 Prices are based on a meal for two, including wine.