Faversham Road, Seasalter, Whitstable, Kent (01227 273370), £40.
As of today, bracing Whitstable, where the oyster is king, has an R in the month. At the Harris brothers' stripped-down pub out in the marshes, focus is on art and food, much of the latter bought locally. Flavours sing out from dishes such as oysters with chorizo and roast rump of lamb with boulangère potatoes.