Fishy business in Dulwich

Decent fish and chips are notoriously scarce in London, so news of a new chippie on Lordship Lane sent us scuttling for the car keys.

Sea Cow is at the posh end of the fried fish market: taupe walls, wooden floors and oak-stained refectory tables with benches are appealingly muted and modern.

The wet fish counter displays the day's menu: everything from the usual cod and haddock to grouper and tilapia cooked three ways - battered, fried or chargrilled.

A grilled sea bass (£8) was delicious, the smoky, crisp skin giving way to beautiful white, flaky meat. Cod (£5) was a generous portion coated by a light batter - too light according to its recipient, who favours a less health-conscious recipe. The mushy peas turned up as a rather poncey minted pea purèe and the chips disappointed by erring on the underdone side.

That said, Sea Cow has plenty to recommend it for locals who fancy fresh fish in a good value, no-frills environment - it even boasts an extensive list of wines available by the glass or bottle. It just isn't the incredible traditional chippie of your dreams.

The Sea Cow
37 Lordship Lane, SE22 8EW