Feline fine

The Cat And Mutton is the latest arrival on the increasingly crowded gastronomic branchline that is Broadway Market. This bit of E8 hasn't quite achieved restaurant-gulch status, but the last few years have seen a definite turn around.

The Cat was a large Victorian corner pub and all that persists is a remnant of tiled floor, emblazoned with Cat And Mutton, and some of the original window glass advertising nostalgic, now-forgotten brand names, such as Toby and Charrington.

Even on a midweek night (and with the head chef on holiday) this is a busy place that has obviously struck a chord with the locals, so booking before travelling makes sense.

The large open space divides into three - there's the small open kitchen, the bar and the rest. Drinkers (some of whom bring their bicycles into the pub, which could imply a serious level of local lawlessness) take up a few of the tables but there isn't any demarcation line between drinkers and eaters. All in all, the Cat has retained an agreeable pubbiness.

The food is sound and steady, no fireworks, but that may be a result of the head chef being on holiday. Prices are keen and the service is friendly and informal. Leek-and-potato soup is a tad more potatoey than leeky, but a smoked-mackerel terrine with pickles and toast is more successful, a grand chunky texture enlivened with a few capers and splendid char-striped toast. The bread is good here. A roast pepper, fennel and goats' cheese salad with pine nuts provides a decent combination of tastes and textures.

Among the main courses, the veggie option screams for attention - chickpea tagine with lavender couscous and yoghurt dressing'. The tagine is well made, quite spicy, rich and tomatoey; the yoghurt dressing is sound, but the lavender couscous is an abomination. The texture is solid and claggy, and it tastes like that sickly perfume beloved by elderly aunts. Rare-breed sausages and mash is fine. Beef bourguignon comes with honey-roast root vegetables and decent greens. There is seared tuna.

The wine list is ungrasping and there are pleasant bottles to be had for £15. Puds are to the point - rhubarb crumble, chocolate brownie, cheese. The Cat And Mutton answers a need for unpretentious, reasonably priced gastropub fare.

Cat & Mutton
76 Broadway Market, Bethnal Green, E8 4QJ