Feeling fishy: One-O-One

One-O-One
Sheraton Park Tower Hotel, 101 William Street, SW1 (020-7290 7101). Mon-Sun £140 ***

Breton chef Pascal Proyart has not been treading water at this hotel dining room but steadily raising its profile as one of the best places to eat seafood. Because fish is expensive to begin with and because hotel dining seems obliged to exert a premium, it is best to go on someone else's expense account. That way you can tuck into roasted peppered lobster served with lobster mash and lobster-infused Béarnaise with gay abandon. Another popular way to get to grips with claws is the platter of King Crab from the Barents Sea.

Proyart likes to mix fish with meat, as in seared scallops with duck foie gras and also pay tribute to noble varieties such as turbot and Dover sole by cooking them simply and timing them precisely. The Summer Cafe, now in its second year, has been open since mid-April offering simpler, cheaper dishes.