Equal measures for locals

The days when the West End had the monopoly on decent drinking dens are over. In fact, and with relatively few exceptions, Soho and its immediate environs are now home to some of London's more lamentable operations, with the old hands fleeing to hitherto unfashionable neighbourhoods, which are benefiting from entrepreneurs keen to capitalise on cheaper rents and guaranteed local markets.

Such is the case in Honor Oak Park, where two units of a dreary parade of shops have been transformed into a smart new bar and restaurant operation. Shiny metal, polished wood, leather banquettes and illuminated blue wall screens are all present and correct in a testament to modernism and, even though these are previously uncharted waters, it already seems to be attracting a healthy number of locally fashionable young-at-heart boys and girls.

The DJ music at weekends is probably the biggest draw, or perhaps the live jazz on Thursdays. But on other nights the appropriately funky background music makes for a conducive atmosphere for a meal and a drink. I say this is part restaurant, but the crowds seem to be flocking here just for the drinks - so much so that if you do want to eat, I'd recommend booking ahead.

On the food front, starters include grilled squid with pineapple and chilli dressing (£4.95), or quiche lorraine with a mixed leaf salad (£4.50). Mains can include a lamb chump with mustard and mint, served with mashed potatoes and a confit of garlic and shallots (£10.25), or steamed brill with courgettes, red onions, new potatoes and a sauce vierge (£10.20). Desserts include a rhubarb crumble and egg custard, or a plate of Jamaican rum-flamed bananas with vanilla ice cream.

But the drinks list is comparable to many a quality West End venue, and it demonstrates much restraint in its pricing policy. The cocktails, prepared by a Forrest Whittaker lookalike, run in at just £4.95 and include an excellent apple iced tea, a good-quality caipirinha, and a more than reasonable whisky fizz which is made with Bells whisky mixed with lime juice, gomme, soda and orange juice.

Budweiser Budvar and Kirin are available on draught by the half pint (£1.60) or two-pint pitcher (£6.20). But it is the wine list that shows some good deals, with a Les Collinettes Sancerre at £23.95, and a Chilean Las Alturas Cabernet-Merlot at £11.50.

Equal deserves to be a success, and I hope the people of Honor Oak Park appreciate the quality of this new venue on their doorstep which has all the advantages of a decent West End bar. Vive la neighbourhood bar.

Equal
68-70 Honor Oak Park, SE23 1DY