Enjoy the ride at Frankie's

This location has had a few previous incarnations, none of them going the distance. Even Marco Pierre White's sure touch hasn't managed to make a success of this Knightsbridge basement, either with his Parisian Chophouse or as Chez Max. There's something just too, well, subterranean about it.

Now he's teamed up with bijou jockey Frankie Dettori, fresh from doing whatever he does to his own range of pseudo-Italian ready dishes, to have yet another stab.

They've certainly made it look utterly gorgeous: a darkly decadent, bevelled-mirror lined womb, illuminated by the rather spooky twinkle of several vast glitter balls. Tables are dressed in fleshy red leather. It's an oddly adult (as in X-rated) environment for what's been described as a family restaurant.