Energy in a bottle

When you've been doing this job as long as I have, the same old faces pop up time and again as they rise - and, indeed, fall - through the social hierarchy of entrepreneurialism. José Espinas was a relatively famous social butterfly back in the Nineties, whoring doors and orchestrating events at ephemeral venues such as Saint, Mondo and Freedom.

It was inevitable, then, that this fast-talking, soprano-pitched Filipino would materialise in later years with a venue he could call his own. Parker Place, on Parker Street - a small lane running off the Holborn end of Kingsway - is his long-awaited venue, and the renovation of this former Fulmar & Firkin pub has been ably achieved, albeit on a limited budget.

Two long interconnecting rooms comprise the interior, and they've been decorated in warm hues of purple and deep red. Regency-style couches add a touch of glamour to the place, glass chandeliers, reproduction mirrors and antique clocks make for a mildly camp feel, much in the style of - but not quite mirroring - the excellent Loungelover bar in Shoreditch. A curious display of wilting flowers and rotting fruit detract somewhat from the otherwise handsome look of the bar. Lunchtimes at Parker Place are sedate affairs, with the crowd made up of office workers attracted to the reasonably priced Thai food. The menu boasts more than 40 different snacks, rice and noodle dishes, with most main courses just £5. There are many variations of stir-fried pork, chicken and beef dishes, but an indication as to the spicy heat of the dishes would have eased the decision-making process. An alternative menu includes the likes of fish and chips, spaghetti Bolognese, and scampi and chips.

The place comes to life in the evenings, particularly later in the week when DJs spin a mix of retro classics. Food service continues throughout the evening and diners can relax in the front of the bar, relatively unbothered by the music from the back.

On the drinks front, Parker Place might be the first 'normal' pub to breach the much-dreaded £3-perpintbarrier for a pint of pedestrian lager. I mean, Carlsberg for £3? Puh-lease, what is the world coming to? Pints of Carlsberg Export, Guinness, Tetley's (smooth pour) and San Miguel are similarly priced. Bottled beers and alcopops are also £3 a bottle. The floodgates are now open for all others to follow - not long now, then, before the £4 pint.

The back bar, on the other hand, boasts some seriously good spirits, including Ketel One vodka and Buffalo Trace bourbon. Mixed into cocktails, however, you get mixed results, but time and training will surely standardise the output.

From the disappointingly limited wine list (nine offerings in total), the Moreau Chablis 2000 (£15.95) is probably your best bet in the whites, and an Aimery Merlot (£13) from the reds. An Aimery rosé is also available at £12.95.

Despite a few careless short cuts, Espinas's enthusiasm and flamboyance should ensure the success of Parker Place. If he could bottle this energy, he could easily sell it on to other locations - and at much more than £3 a pint.

Parker Place
51 Parker Street, WC2B 5PU