Eat up in 90 minutes

London's newest and most fashionable restaurant has decreed that relaxing over a long, leisurely dinner is out ... eating up and leaving within 90 minutes is in. Yauatcha is the latest venture of restaurateur Alan Yau, the man who launched Wagamama and owns Hakkasan.

His new establishment already boasts a star clientele - including Kill Bill star Uma Thurman - its dim sum has entranced critics and enthusiastic customers are willing to pay about £50 a head for a meal. But while even the most timeefficient restaurants elsewhere in the capital impose a two-hour limit, Yauatcha has surprised industry experts by insisting tables can only be reserved for an hour and a half - unless your party is of more than seven people. Theoretically, the restaurant, with its five-hour evening opening hours, can accommodate three sittings instead of the customary two. A spokeswoman for Yauatcha said: "The principle of dim sum is that it is a relatively quick meal. It is not where you have to wait for three courses. The 90-minute sitting has not been a problem but we have only been open a week and it is something we are keeping under review." The ever-shortening dining times in London have alarmed some critics, who say that customers are coming under increasing pressure to "eat up, drink up and cough up" because

of the tough economics of the industry.

"A 90-minute sitting is extreme," said Peter Harden, co-founder of the Harden's restaurant guide. "You are being asked to pay an awful lot for a short experience. The problem is that, in their heart of hearts, people just don't want restaurants to be businesses. Unfortunately, they are."