Dumplings with politics on the side

The very name Gay Hussar demonstrates that this restaurant dates back to a bygone era. It is, in the words of the proprietor, an "old-fashioned restaurant", and proud of it.

For those on the Left of British politics it was a byword for mixing food and politics. And for those at The Guardian and Tribune table next to me, it still is.

There are many myths about The Gay Hussar. Did the then Foreign Secretary George Brown really get thrown out for what might be described these days as anti-social behaviour? Was Tony Blair persuaded to stand for Parliament back in 1982 at table 10? Was Mick Jagger propositioned by Tom Driberg in an effort to get him to stand for the Labour Party?

Who knows. What I do know is that this restaurant has an aura that makes any of these stories believable.

The Gay Hussar is what it is. A Hungarian restaurant, proud of its food, with affordable and even drinkable Hungarian wine.

The food, as you would expect, is wholesome, fulfilling and not for the faint-hearted. Dumplings abound, old favourites like chilled cherry soup are always on the menu and smoked goose - which I had - is a speciality. Rumour has it that my old sparring partner Roy Hattersley had to stop coming for a time when he went vegetarian. He would have been sorely missed.

One of the downsides, if you are not a political aficionado, is the photographs around the walls. Not all of them are of politicians but a large number have some connection with politics. You could call it a rogues' gallery. It's not that long ago that Michael Foot actually formally opened this "exhibition".

For me, of course, it's not what's on the walls but what's on the plate that really matters. I started with fish dumplings. These, like all the dumplings at The Gay Hussar, are a speciality. The sauce was excellent, not least because there wasn't a superfluity, which always ends up down my tie.

My guests had herrings, which were described as "delicious", and an assortment of Hungarian sausages. These wouldn't have been my cup of tea but there were no grumbles.

There was excellent bread (with caraway seeds), which my guests had but I've given up eating as a starter. My waistline has benefited enormously.