The slightly over-bright, closely tabled dining room balances cool, clean deco lines with the bustle and warmth of a monster open rotisserie. The menu took about a day to read, but you'll struggle to choose a dud. My starter, smoked eel salad with bacon (£10), was generous and satin soft. The friend's foie gras terrine with PX jelly (£11) was perfection on toast. No wonder her French partridge with cabbage and bacon (£15) defeated her, despite its rustic flavour. My simple steamed whiting (£16.50) was also spot on. The £7.50 price tag on the fruit was made less painful by the beautiful little pot of rice pud it came with. So "affordable luxury" as it promised? Only just, if you play it safe with the wine list.
