Dim sum for dinner

Yau-at-cha sort of breaks down into Alan Yau (owner of Busaba Eathai and Hakkasan) at tea (cha), a drink which the Chinese frequently accompany with the little steamed, baked and fried dumplings called dim sum. Yau's new Soho restaurant, designed, as were his others, by the perfectionist Christian Liaigre, has been eagerly awaited by dim sum devotees.

Firstly, chef Cheong Wah Soon from Hakkasan, where the dumplings are sublime, is supervising the kitchen. Secondly, Yauatcha is open all day until late (11.30pm), whereas conventionally dim sum are not served after about 5pm. The restaurant in the basement of Richard Rogers's Ingeni building has a merry atmosphere of twinkling lights, darting fish and shadowy chefs moving behind misted glass screens.

The staff are handsome and efficient, and the quality of the dim sum mind-blowing. Try the familiar but also experiment. In both senses of the word, you can afford to.

Yauatcha
Broadwick Street, London, W1F 0DL