Debo swans into the pub trade at 86

The country's most unlikely themed pub has opened in Swinbrook, just outside Burford, Oxfordshire. The owner of The Swan Inn is the indefatigable Dowager Duchess of Devonshire aged 86. Known as Debo, she was born Deborah Mitford and her grandfather Bertie, 1st Baron Redesdale, inherited Swinbrook in 1810.

It was Debo's sister Diana who married Oswald Mosley while another, Unity, became obsessed with Hitler. Nancy, the eldest of the six sisters, wrote Love in a Cold Climate, while Debo married The Duke of Devonshire and, until recently, was the chatelaine of Chatsworth. Diana, Nancy and Unity are all buried in the Swinbrook churchyard.

The pub and a neighbouring cottage are all that remain of the estate. Debo Devonshire has funded the restoration of The Swan Inn with the help of landlord Archie Orr Ewing and his wife Nicola, who have taken the lease. The Orr Ewings already run the successful King's Head pub in Bledington nearby. There can be few prettier spots to drive to from London for Sunday lunch or to stay for the weekend. Planning has been granted to put some rooms in the cottage.

Inside the pub there are wonderful blownup photographs of all the Mitford sisters which have not been seen before, as well as a fantastic stuffed swan. The chef is Brian Stocker and the food is adventurous. Not always successfully so. A "warm gateau" of oxtail turns out to be a particularly delicious braised oxtail with roasted balsamic beets and horseradish on fried bread, while a mackerel salad with bloody Mary purÈe is rather drab.

My friend David said his carpaccio of venison was good but its tiny slivers were a bit mean. My wife's main course of roast duck breast was judged "excellent" but the same could not be said of my Fifield Angus Steak Pie, whose short crust pastry was thin and dry, its contents rattling around inside like a baby's toy. Pies should be brimful and have a flaky pastry.

The wine list ranges from £12.95 for the house wine (Le Vieux Clocher CÙtes de Gascogne) to £32 for a Ch‚teau D'Arsac Cru Bourgeois Margaux 1999. The caramelised rice pudding with plum compote is the one to go for and there's a luscious Clos Dady Sauternes 2003 for £3.50 a glass.

There were lots of people eating when we visited but The Swan still had drinkers at the bar enjoying pints of delicious Hooky (local Hook Norton ale) and smoking happily while they still can. The Orr Ewings are natural publicans who make all feel welcome and they deserve to succeed. They should try a few more straightforward dishes, though. A good scampi in a basket with chips is always welcome.

Debo Devonshire also deserves success at The Swan, where she has been "very hands on". There can be few women at 86 who decide to open a pub. Good luck to her.

The Swan Inn
Swinbrook, Oxfordshire, OX18 4DY