Death by Burrito - review

Expecting a queue — a staggering MEATLiquor style, two-hour line — I turned up especially early to Death by Burrito. London does, after all, seem to be in a permanent state of salivation over junk food at the moment and this — the latest place to take a street-food-style meat sandwich and stick it in a restaurant — is a new venture by the Rebel Dining Society.

This means there is a reputation preceding the (Death by) burritos now being served up at Catch in Shoreditch. That reputation is for big clever culinary installations and events, and since they are generally raved about, these burritos have promise.

At 5pm on Death by Burrito’s first Saturday, however, there was no queue at all. We were first in. Yet what the place lacked in atmosphere initially was soon to change. All we had to do was to sip our cocktails (tequila-based big hitters for £6.50) in seats by the window and soon the crowds came marching in. A few of them were encouraged (or not scared off) by me as I brandished my burrito at them, nodding, as they read the menu on the glass.

The burrito as we know it is actually Californian-Mexican, invented in San Francisco, and almost all London versions are carb-fest roll-ups — a swollen mass of mostly beans and rice, with a speckling of meat. Tasty enough, yes, but no match for the beef rib extravagaza served to me in a tortilla at Death by. This thing came loaded — but with sweet, sticky meat, not rice. Of equal delight was the “Baja fish and slaw” version. A lighter option to the beef, it still comes thick on fish. The duck and chimichurri was the weakest: less flavour, more rice.

Since our waitress was also exemplary, the only other issue with Death by is the price. For street food served at tables, £12 per baton seemed a lot — although that does include a side of tortilla chips.

After three “Small Bites” of crab cakes, scallop ceviche and stuffed plantain croquettes (all £6, all excellent) we were far too full to force in a mushroom or braised pig cheek burrito. They will have to wait until next time — which will undoubtedly come and for which I will undoubtedly have to queue.

Catch, 22 Kingsland Road, E2. Open Weds-Sat, 5pm-10pm. About £50 for two including a cocktail each.