Cuisine without the carbon footprints

I adore the concept of an eco-friendly restaurant. That eating out is an act of selfless environmental virtuousness gets my vote any time.

But I must confess that rather than walking to Water House, we took a taxi. "I've driven a cab for 19 years," swore our driver, "and I've never heard of this street."

Water House, on the Regent's Canal, is designed to rely on renewable hydro-electric power. Roof-mounted solar panels provide hot water. The minimalist white and oak wood dining room uses the canal's water temperature to provide the cooling system.

All cooking is powered by hydro-electricity. A wormery digests raw food. And, like Acorn House - its award-winning King's Cross sister - profits go back into the community.

Indeed it's all so nauseatingly worthy, it comes as a right shocker that the food's so good. In fact, from the off (rhubarb bellini, £6), the menu was downright decadent. Italian seemed an odd choice of cuisine, given the care taken to source supplies locally.

But I certainly wasn't complaining when my starter special arrived: a fluffy cloud of mozzarella served on a garlicky mound of grilled aubergines (£9). My friend was equally delighted with her smoky speck D'Aosta ham with roast beetroot (£9.50), but it was her £16 artichoke and thyme barigoule (a sort of stew) that sent her into raptures.

Meanwhile my seared paradise prawns (£15) lived up to their name, nestling on an aldente bed of black rice confidently complemented by a creamy coriander sauce.

Then came those puddings: a bittersweet chocolate tart with black pepper ice cream (£4.50) slipped over the tongue like silk, while a caramel ice-cream (£2.50) left me convinced that Water House deserves my devoted continuing support - for selfless reasons, of course.

Water House
Orsman Road, London, N1 5QJ