Cockney caper's just a tad too touristy

Tucked around the back of the historic Smithfields meat market, this adoringly renovated boozer seems to offer the real spit and sawdust deal.

Pints in pewter tankards, candlelight, forest green wallpaper, cosy snugs and a modest, Essex-sourced oyster bar. Step inside and you're transported to the London of another era, even if it is one full of trendy young media professionals. But there's something a bit too touristy about a place that offers cockles in vinegar and pickled eggs as £1.50 bar snacks - I half-expected them to be brought over by a pearly king and queen.

Having demanded our drinks order three times before I'd even taken off my coat, we were studiously ignored when we eventually tried to place it, giving us plenty of time to mock the cringeworthy list, ludicrously categorised into the likes of "For Rappers, Starlets and Elegants" or "For Movers, Shakers and Candlestick Makers". Say what?

My half pint of prawns (£4.95) was fresh, but the date's oven-baked queen scallops in garlic butter (£7.95) were so be-crumbed he might as well have been eating croutons. Still, the biggest test was the trad mains - and here the Fox passed with flying colours. The date's steak and oyster pie (£12.50) was a belter. Lashings of gravy, huge hunks of meat: this was a big hug of a pie, cheerfully topped off with two Maldon oysters and a light pastry hat. My cod in Battersea beer batter (£12.50) was a similar treat: quality fish, batter not too oily, mushy peas clearly a fresh vegetable.

All good - until the pud. A knickerbocker glory (£5.50) came with squirty cream, hardly any fruit and ice cream that the date was convinced was Carte D'Or. Hardly what nursey would make, let alone a chef. So it's far from perfect. But, if you're just looking for decently priced, decently cooked pub grub, you could do worse than weigh anchor on this theme ride.

The Fox & Anchor
Charterhouse Street, London, EC1M 6AA