Chef throws out critics

Simmering: Jean-Christophe Novelli

Luke Leitch|Arts Reporter|Evening Standard

10 April 2012

One of the most famous chefs in Britain was distressed when the latest edition of a restaurant guide awarded him just two rosettes.

Jean-Christophe Novelli was particularly upset as the AA guide had once crowned him its Chef du Chef. He decided to ban the organisation from his restaurant.

So he was rather shocked to discover two AA inspectors had stopped for lunch at his Auberge du Lac restaurant at Brocket Hall, near Welwyn, Hertfordshire.

The food critics finished their meal and might have expected an espresso to round it off - but instead they were thrown out into the garden "like dogs" by the 43-year-old Frenchman.

Relations between the AA and Novelli became tense some weeks ago when he received a letter saying the Auberge had got only two rosettes, despite the guide describing its food as " imaginative fare in an exclusive setting".

Novelli told the Evening Standard: "At first I thought they had changed the system to three rosettes, rather than five. But they hadn't."

The chef immediately telephoned the AA's chief hotel and restaurant inspector, Peter Birnie, for an explanation.

He was not satisfied by Mr Birnie's answer, so he decided to take extreme action. "I banned them. It is not fair for my staff, it is not fair for anybody else - and, anyway, who gives a toss?" But unfortunately for the unnamed inspectors who arrived at the Auberge for lunch last Friday, the news had not filtered through.

The two male diners had already been pinpointed as possible inspectors by Novelli and his restaurant manager and when they presented their business cards at the end of the meal the suspicions were confirmed.

Novelli said: "The AA are banned but still they came to lunch. I went over to their table and one said: 'I'm so glad to meet you - I've always wanted to.' He also said the food was fantastic." Novelli's reply was not quite as warm.

"I said: 'I want you out of my restaurant - completely.' They tried to make some explanation but I said 'Don't waste my time - I want you out'."

The two inspectors had been eating on the terrace and, when they realised Novelli was serious, they made for the main exit back through the restaurant.

But M Novelli had other ideas. "I wanted them to go out the side exit through the garden. Out the back, like the dog," recalled the chef. He added: "I was very polite but I made it clear I am very disappointed."

Last night Mr Birnie said he did not know that Novelli had banned the AA but conceded the chef was far from pleased with his two rosettes. He said: "I think Jean-Christophe is disappointed at the award he's received."

He added that the chef has only been at the Auberge for a year, and emphasised: "Every chef has to win awards freshly when they are at a new restaurant. So I'm afraid we've made our decision."

He said of his inspectors getting their marching orders: " Occasionally these things happen."

Andrew Hepburn, managing director of the Brocket Hall Estate, defended the chef. He said: "We haven't succeeded in the restaurant business by making a habit of ejecting diners.

"However, in this instance I do have enormous sympathy with JC's frustrations at the inexplicably low rating, which does not reflect the reality of his outstanding restaurant."

Novelli has just been awarded the Harden's Remy Award.

Last year Gordon Ramsay sought a court injunction against the AA guide in a row over the award of a fifth rosette at his Petrus restaurant in Mayfair.

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