Charming tastes in Camden

The enterprising 26-year-old owner of Camden's newest culinary venture feels that London is deficient in French Vietnamese food, and having tasted her delicious contributions, I'm not inclined to question her logic.

The white-tile decor is rather too Pizza Express, and the garlic fish cakes tasted more of fish hooks than actual fish, but everything else was lovely, from the crunchy, herbacious, chilled spring rolls to the saffron Vietnamese pancakes, which overflowed with prawns, squid and pork.

Everything from the herbs to the meat is obviously fresh: the green vegetable side order was a welcome addition to the meal, though my friend's grilled ribs and shredded peanut pork narrowly won the battle for his attention. The dessert we wanted was unavailable but a curious, deep orange rice concoction was presented free of charge in lieu; the Vietnamese-born - but London-bred - restaurateur (a former accountant) has the charm and dedication that deserve to succeed.

With a nice bottle of Chablis and two bottles of water, the bill came to a very reasonable £53.75 before service, which, unusually, is not included.

Bluu Grass
6 Plender Street, NW1