Catching penne from heaven

There's no doubt the Italians have a winning way with carbohydrates: the very thought of a plate of spaghetti lovingly dressed with olive oil and garlic is enough to induce salivating chops the world over. It may have originated in China but in its adoptive home, pasta has long been more than just food - it's a byword for family, tradition and culture.

But is it art? Well, there is certainly beauty in its myriad forms: from farfalle to conchiglia, penne to fusilli, there is a perfectly designed pasta shape for any sauce known to man. And there is undoubted anthropological interest in the social, political and culinary import of more than a century of pastamaking, not to mention - in these foodie times - a potential fascination in the tools needed to convert eggs and flour into edible heaven.

The cultural impact of pasta has, of course, travelled well beyond Italian shores, not least becoming the staple diet of every Briton capable of boiling water.

It was not always so: the first pasta recipe published in England was penned by Elizabeth David in a 1952 edition of Harper's Bazaar. Though she would scarcely have advocated quaffing spaghetti in the street using one's fingers (as was commonplace in early 20th-century Italy), the renowned English food writer was a passionate post-WWII advocate for pasta. The exhibition includes an annotated proof of the Harper's recipe.

All this ogling the ephemera of Italian cuisine is bound to make you hungry. To this end, the exhibition organisers have wisely scheduled a couple of events which combine feeding the mind with stuffing the stomach: cook and food writer Valentina Harris will host a talk accompanied by wine and nibbles (July 8, 6pm, £12); and online gourmet deli Esperya.com will provide food and drink to be enjoyed while viewing the exhibits (Sept 12, 6pm, £15).

Until Sept 15, Estorick Collection of Modern Italian Art , 39a Canonbury Square N1, Wed to Sat 11am to 6pm, Sun midday to 5pm, £3.50, £2.50 concs. Tel: 020 7704 9522. Tube: Highbury & Islington