Camden gets its cool back

In the mid-Nineties, when I was a Converse-clad teenage indie-kid, Camden was a synonym for cool. If you had a single in the top 20, a well-kept fringe and attitude, chances are you would be found in the streets of NW1. Little of interest happened north of Chalk Farm or south of Mornington Crescent.

At home in Derbyshire, I would hungrily devour NME and Melody Maker, brimming with tales of Jarvis Cocker, Damon Albarn, Noel Gallagher and that bloke from Menswear all playing pool together in The Good Mixer on Inverness Street, the place to go for pop-star spots. I wanted to run away not just to London, but to Camden.

Several years later, when I had acquired some friends who lived in Camden, I can't tell you the anticlimax that was my first visit. What? This grotty collection of streets, overflowing with grimy goths, tourists, kebab shops and the detritus of the Britpop years was IT? What a spectacular let-down.

Camden, it seemed, had lost it. East, not north, was where the in-crowd hung out now. But, thanks to an evergrowing number of great drinking and music venues, ritzy new restaurants and the necessary celebrity endorsements, this corner of northwest London has been steadily getting back on its feet. Now you can't spend more than a few hours there without falling over Amy Winehouse, Johnny Borrell or the tight-trousered boys from the Mighty Boosh. Here's a quick guide to cool-again Camden.

THE ROUNDHOUSE
What: Legendary arts venue.
Why it's cool: Jimi Hendrix, the Rolling Stones, The Ramones and Red Hot Chili Peppers have played there as well as theatre companies and dance troupes. Tonight sees Groove Armada performing, The Chemical Brothers on Thursday.
What it costs: Ticket prices vary for concerts. Pint of lager, £3.50; vodka and tonic, £3.60.
Who goes there? Naomi Campbell, David Gest, Jude Law, Sadie Frost and Ewan McGregor, who is an ambassador for The Roundhouse.
Chalk Farm Road (020 7424 9991)

THE BARFLY
What: Small, but perfectly formed, proper little gig venue.
Why it's cool: It's THE place to catch future bands on their way up. Muse, Editors, The Kooks, Razorlight and The Strokes have all played here in the past and The Gossip played here last week. Hotly tipped new bands playing this summer include Tokyo Police Club and Gallows.
What it costs: Entrance to gigs varies, but is generally only a few quid. Pint of lager, £3.30; vodka and tonic, £2.85.
Who goes there? Alex Zane, Beth Ditto, Sting, Sophie Ellis-Bextor.
49 Chalk Farm Road (020 7691 4244, barflyclub.com)

THE HAWLEY ARMS
What: The latter-day version of The Good Mixer, but a lot less scruffy.
Why it's cool: Until recently, it was just another random boozer. But what a turnaround - it's probably now the most fashionable rock'n'roll pub in north London.
What it costs: Free at all times. Pint of lager, £3; vodka and tonic, £2.90.
Who goes there? 50 per cent of the clientele have a top 10 album or a telly show: Amy Winehouse, Razorlight, Peaches Geldof, Alex Zane and oldtime Camden types Sadie Frost, Liam Gallagher and Nicole Appleton.
2 Castlehaven Road (020 7428 5979)

THE LOCK TAVERN
What: Describes itself modestly as a "tarted-up boozer" - it's one of the hippest pubs of the moment.
Why it's cool: It has a glorious garden, a roof terrace, a room for gigs, and a brilliant line-up of bands and DJs. It does roasts and great BBQs and a fine line in silliness (eg Phil Oakey Karaoke).
What it costs: Free entry at all times. Pint of lager, £3; vodka and tonic, £2.90.
Who goes there? Kate Moss and Pete Doherty, Morrissey, Towers Of London, Amy Winehouse.
35 Chalk Farm Road (020 7482 7163, lock-tavern.co.uk)

AT PROUD
What: A lovingly restored warehouse with a photographic gallery and bars.
Why it's cool: It has a late licence, a marquee-style room for gigs, a sun terrace with beds and great DJ sets.
What it costs: Entrance from £5 to £10 after 7.30pm. Bottle of lager, £3; vodka and tonic, £4.30.
Who goes there? Kelly Osbourne, Carl Barat, Natalie Imbruglia, Liam Gallagher, the Klaxons, Noel Fielding, Johnny Borrell, Peaches Geldof.
Stables Market, Chalk Farm Road, (020 7482 3867, atproud.net)

GILGAMESH
What: Babylonian bar with a pan-Asian restaurant proves Camden isn't only for grungers.
Why it's cool: Theatrical décor - flickering votives cast gentle light on bronze frescoes of horsebacked warriors.
What it costs: Free, except Saturday nights, when without a reservation, after 9pm it's £5 for ladies, £10 for gents. Bottle of lager, £4.50; vodka and tonic (double), £9.
Who goes there? Kate and Pete, Chris and Gwynnie, Madonna (without Guy).
Stables Market, Chalk Farm Road (020 7482 5757, gilgameshbar.com)