Business as usual at 192

This review was first published in May 2002

192 is a place that evokes passionate reactions. When it was bought and then closed down a few months ago for a refurb, you might have been forgiven for thinking that the world had come to an end. Even people who had long since moved away from Notting Hill declared that it was a little like the ravens leaving the Tower of London.

What actually happened was that an elderly wine bar was given a much-needed lick of paint, had its loos fixed and was generally smartened up. When I turned up the other night, I was surprised just how little had changed - the logo still seemed the same, the banquettes and location of the bar appeared largely unaltered.

In fact, all that was missing was the debonair Tchaik Chassay, one of the founders and the original designer, who used to hold court to a pack of admirers.

The menu seems to have benefited from the change of management. While not seismic, the difference was obvious from the presentation of first courses. A dish of seared scallops with lentils and parmesan crisp arrived plated with geometric precision and tasted very good, too. Crispy duck salad was small but good, although not as good as the one at Le Caprice .

Main courses were also presented with an elegance that even stretched to a robust dish of fricassee of beef fillet with crispy parsnips and wild mushrooms. Of the pasta dishes, crab ravioli was generously portioned (a starter-size is perfectly adequate as a main), but was rather marred by a vinegary sauce with chopped tomatoes that overpowered the delicate flavour of the crab. A side order of rocket mash was disappointing - the leaves doing nothing for a very bland dollop of mashed spuds.

For pudding, I had been toying with the idea of blueberry Muscat. However, when our very solicitous waiter tipped us off that the banana tart with candied walnuts was extremely good, but often overlooked by bananaphobic customers, my contrary nature made me choose it, and it was delicious. I rather applaud the new-look 192, it is a smart bourgeois restaurant for a smart bourgeois neighbourhood.

192
192 Kensington Park Road, W11 2ES