Bringing on the batter

In Oliver Twist, Charles Dickens mentions a fried fish warehouse, and the French have been frying chips since the potato came to Europe in the 16th Century from South America.

The fish and chip trade developed out of small businesses which sold fish and chips separately, in the streets and alleys of London and the larger industrial towns in the Victorian era.

Joseph Malin opened the first shop in London in the East End in
1860. Now, there are more than 8,500 fish shops in the UK - eight for every one of those pairs of golden arches. Fish and chips were once so popular that in 1931 a shop in Bradford had to employ a doorman to control the queue.

In Britain we still eat our fish and chips with salt and vinegar and the ubiquitous tommy k. Despite pressure from Brussels, we haven't bowed to that strange continental habit of dipping our chips in mayonnaise.

Old fashioned fare

Your local chippy has given up on the unhygienic newspaper wrapping, but nothing gets the great British public salivating more than the smell of fish and chips as they stroll along Brighton seafront at the height of summer.

Today, it is more fashionable than ever. Conran's Le Pont de la Tour and The Dorchester both feature this great British dish on their menus.

Other top-nosh restaurants serving excellent fish and chips are: J Sheekey, WC2 (Tel: 020 7240 2565), and Poissonnerie de l'Avenue, SW3 (Tel: 020 7589 2457), though expect to pay about £15 per portion.

Best takeaways around town are: The Golden Hind, W1 (Tel: 020 7486 3644), Olley's Fish Bar, SE24 (Tel: 020 8671 8259), where the chips are of particular note, Diana's Traditional Fish and Chips, E1 (Tel: 020 7247 6184), and Local Fish and Chips, W9 (Tel: 020 8960 6768).

The secret of the perfect fish and chips is in the quality of the fish and the batter. Stephen Pini, executive head chef of the Fishmongers Company, one of the most ancient and eminent of London City companies, says he uses a beer batter to give that wonderful crunch that is so essential to perfect fish.

But there is a twist; hidden inside is wonderfully moist smoked haddock.