Breakfast martini left us stirred

All cheap brown leather sofas and breeze-block walls, this huge, airy space boasts decor that was "in" more than 10 years ago. Friends warned me this restaurant/cocktail bar is rammed on Friday and Saturday night.

So, to beat the mob, I dragged my mates along for a hungover Sunday brunch. What better way to start than cocktails, The Loft's real strength? It's clear from the innovative 26-page drinks list this bar takes getting smashed very seriously.

My peachy Fig Leaf Surprise blended stewed rhubarb and Earl Grey tea sugar syrup with passionfruit vodka to fab effect. These cocktails are good value, too, at £6.80.

As for my Breakfast Martini (well, it was early in the day): why can't every day start with a zingy mix of marmalade and gin? After that we could have happily eaten anything - lucky, because the meal was less than tempting.

My Welsh rarebit (£4.50) looked leathery, but happily, one bite said different. The Neal's Yard cheese was soft, the accompanying grapes firm and succulent and the bread super fluffy. Eggs Florentine (£4.90) did float in on an algae-like puddle, but the yolks were the deepest free-range yellow.

A (very) full veggie English (£6.75) topped off with mighty fine tomato and basil sausages, and kedgeree with lentils and peppers (£6) were from similarly high quality ingredients.

The Loft's show and finesse may be all in the cocktails, but its well-priced food is perfect too for some good cheap fills.

The Loft Restaurant
Clapham High Street, London, SW4 7TG