The most memorable element of my sea bass main course was a curious mousse of asparagus: texture of blancmange, taste of pond. Deep-fried courgettes appeared to be dusted with dried rosemary. There's also an autocratic sniffiness to the service: Chef, we were told, was in a 'good mood', which is why he condescended to do me the enormous favour of serving a starter (and therefore correct) portion of the gnocchi. Vivezza isn't bad but it's eminently forgettable.